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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.